- student: can i borrow a pencil
- teacher: i don't know, CAN you?
- student: yes, also colloquial irregularities occur frequently in any language and since you and the rest of our present company understood my intended meaning, being particular about the distinctions between "can" and "may" is purely pedantic and arguably pretentious
“Wrong Century” by Tomas Kucerovsky
the look of wistfulness on her face just punches me straight in the heart
this is literally my favorite piece that ever comes up on tumblr and if you want me to change my mind well then goOD LUCK WITH THAT
Exposure: The beginning of a great photo
Sill Level: Beginner
Getting a proper exposure is at the heart of all photography. I will now attempt to explain it in the simplest terms possible.
You camera has a sensor.
This sensor collects light. Too much light and the image is bright or “overexposed.” Not enough light and your image is dark or “underexposed.”
There are 3 main elements that determine your exposure: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.
The aperture is just an adjustable hole inside your lens that lets in light.
The bigger the hole, the more light it can let in. The smaller the hole, the less light it can let in.
Aperture is measured in f-stops. This indicates the size of the hole. Though it seems backwards, a lower number means a bigger hole. A higher number means a smaller hole.
Your lens will be rated with its maximum aperture. So if it is a “17-55mm f/4 lens”—that means f/4 is the biggest hole it can make. Most lenses can go to f/22, which would be the smallest hole it can make.
A “fast lens” is one that has a very large maximum aperture. These lenses have an f-stop of 2.8 or lower. They are great for doing photography in low light.
A large aperture (low f-stop number) can also give you shallow depth of field. This allows you to make your background blurry to better isolate your subjects.
This is a very desirable thing for many photographers, so they try to get the fastest lens they can.
Shutter speed is how long your sensor is exposed to light. Think of two sliding doors in front of the sensor. They open, let in light, and then close. A fast shutter speed lets in very little light. A slow shutter speed lets in a lot of light.
Shutter speed is measured in seconds. A fast shutter speed will be a fractional value, like 1/500th of a second. A slow shutter speed can be entire seconds.
Your camera might display fractions as just the bottom number in the fraction. So 1/500th would just show as 500. Whole seconds will have a double quotation mark after. So 5 seconds will appear as 5”.
Faster shutter speeds let in less light, but will allow you to freeze action.
Slower shutter speeds let in more light, allowing you to take images in darker environments. With a long enough exposure, you can make night look like day.
With slow shutter speeds you risk your image blurring due to your hands shaking the camera or movement of the subjects in your photos. So if you do a long exposure, you will almost certainly need a very still subject and a tripod.
There is a formula for keeping camera shake from blurring your photo. You just put 1 over the length of your lens. So if your lens is 50mm, you need a shutter speed of 1/50th or faster. Note: This will not stop blurring due to your subject moving.
ISO is the amplification of your sensor. Similar to the volume knob on your radio, ISO amplifies the sensitivity of the sensor so you can increase your shutter speed or make your aperture smaller. It makes the light “louder.” However, this can come at a cost. The more you amplify the sensor, the more noise will show up in your image.
Some cameras can go to a very high ISO and have very little noise. These cameras are usually frickin’ expensive. As technology advances, cheaper cameras get better and have less noise at higher ISOs.
Getting the Balance
A proper exposure requires balancing aperture, shutter speed, and ISO to get your desired result.
To get shallow depth of field you’ll need a large aperture. So you make your f-stop the lowest number possible. But that lets in a lot of light, so you need a fast shutter speed to balance it out.
To take a long exposure, your shutter speed will now let in a ton of light. To keep from overexposing you may need to make your aperture very small so the image does not overexpose.
If it is darker and things are moving, you’ll need a fast shutter speed and a large aperture. But you can’t get a fast enough shutter speed to avoid blur. So you raise your ISO to amplify the light, allow you to get the proper exposure, and keep your subjects from blurring. Yes, it will cause your image to have some noise, but it is a worthy compromise to get the image you desire.
Photography is often about making compromises. Sacrificing a little bit of quality in one area to create the intended effect with a proper exposure. Learning this balancing act can take years to truly master and in further posts I will go deeper into how to figure out how to get the best exposure possible for any situation.
- Exposure is the amount of light captured on your sensor or film
- Not enough light = underexposed
- Too much light = overexposed
- Aperture is the hole in your lens that lets in different amounts of light
- A large hole is a small f-stop
- A small hole is a large f-stop
- A large hole creates shallow depth of field (sharp subject, blurry background)
- A shutter opens and closes to expose your sensor for different amounts of time
- A fast shutter speed freezes motion, but lets in less light
- A slow shutter speed lets in a lot of light, but can cause motion blur if subject is not still
- ISO is the amplification of the sensor
- HIGH ISO makes the image brighter, but creates noise
- LOW ISO makes the image darker, but gives you the cleanest result
Photos by Froggie
This is an example of the tutorial style posts you can find on the newly launched Frogman’s Light School. Eventually, we will cover a variety of topics at every skill level, from beginner to advanced, so keep checking back.
If you’ve been wanting to brush up on your photography skills, follow along!
Robert Sapolsky about his study of the Keekorok baboon troop from National Geographic’s Stress: Portrait of a Killer.
Thiiiiiiis, people, thiiiis!
1. Kill alpha male types
2. Achieve world peace
I’ve actually read a lot of Sapolsky’s work. He’s one of my favorite scientists in the neuro/socio world.
I just watched the documentary and there is so much more about the troop that isn’t in this photoset—not only does the troop have a culture of little aggression and greater cooperation, but any incoming jerk baboons learned within a few months that their shitty behaviour was in no way acceptable, that the troop only rewarded sociability, and they changed accordingly.
If effin’ baboons can learn this there’s pretty much no reason to believe that our only option in dealing with assholes is to just ignore their behaviour and let it continue.
His name is Liui Aquino, a filipino cosplayer. And I think, by far, he’s the greatest Hiccup cosplayer I’ve seen.
That little girl is all of us.
We are her
She is us.
We are one.
Thanks Liui Aquino! Rockin’ the Filipino cosplay scene!
Players will control young female protagonist Nuna and her arctic fox as they try to rescue her homeland from an endless blizzard. Upper One calls itself the first indigenous-owned video game developer and publisher in the U.S. and Never Alone's inspiration comes from the centuries-old stories and folklore of the Iñupiat people native to the region. Priced at $15, it comes out this fall for PC, PS4 and Xbox One.
This game makes me so happy. This is what indie developers have an opportunity to create and what, in all likelihood, AAA companies will be forever blind to. Keep an eye on this one, guys it looks brilliant
This is EVERYTHING
Awe-inspiring! I am really looking forward to experiencing this game and the stories it has woven into it. I’ll take more things being made like this in the world, please!
Big Fish by Sculptor Johnson Tsang
Please reblog and WIN A FREE SET: I have had requests for some brush stroke examples from my new Watercolor set for Photoshop. The image above should do the trick! Each of the strokes shown were painted directly on the canvas with my stylus, using various pen pressure and direction to achieve the results shown. No added textures, no filters, etc. were used. What you see here is what happens when you paint. I am confident that there are no watercolor brushes out there that perform even close to this set. Control wet edges, opacity, softness, and more with the stylus alone. Remember, you can pre-order these brushes for only $6 before Thursday of this week. A few minutes spent experimenting with these will prove that these are worth many times that price.
Thanks for your support- please reblog this post if you have friends that paint digitally. Remember, you can win a FREE set if you reblog - I will be giving away three sets to random Tumblr users.